Відео

Thank you, very helpful

I just measured my grout line…it’s 1/8th inch…yeah!!!!!!! You better ask somebody😂😂😂😂

Question what if the rot is in the joist, how to you fix that?

So I have started my floor but just got four rows down and just remembered the transition piece. So I have a space that is two different highs and widths. I'm in a dining room/kitchen coming from hardwood floors and glue down laminat floor. my question is what's the best transition to use and how big of a gap should I keep in between the two floors. I'm laying down vinyl plank floor by the way. Wish I could take a picture. The line that is there is different because there was a island so the wood floor was up to that and then came up more to the tile I'm guessing. I took up vinyl plank flooring and subfloor and laminat glue down floor. The floor is about 1/4 inch gap so far. The hight is about 3/8 inche. Thank you for any help and love watching your channel.

helped me immensely

Love the video, what gauge and length nails were you using please?

Our hardwood floor is nailed and glued

This unorthodox way of using a small-looking table saw is a common cabinet and millwork saw. Only to be used by tradesmen familiar with this tool. Because of it's openness it can be very dangerous

I had someone remodel my bathroom and instead of removing the old tile they put the new tile on top of that old. Now I can see the toilet leaking in the basement. I think I have something a gap in there when sitting on the toilet.

I have the same issue. After pulling the carpet i found particleboard which is on top of the old hardwood floors. Can I still laydown any other type of flooring on top of the particelboard?

I don't know why there are so many videos where people are going over beautiful hardwood floors. There is no way I would ever put the stuff even near hardwood, unless it was completely pee stained or blood-stained. Just about anything else we'll finish out and come back to life. Good tips though.

An inside corner is an inside corner and an outside corner is an outside corner. The long and short terms just confuse things. If you would stick to a single term it would make sense.

Here is why you confuse people. You call the corners two different things. Inside/outside and long/short. Stick to one term and your description of what to do will be more clear. Calling it short one time and inside the next time confuses people. You can call it blah if you want, but stick with a single term for the concept.

This is the greatest video i've seen so far. Great job man.

Just finished my stairs at home . My first time remodeling stairs . One of the only things that can be done in a home that I had not yet done , despite being a professional tradesman, I work strictly in the commercial building trades but I have never hired anyone to work on my house or my vehicles . So I stripped the carpet and the plywood down to the stringers and installed the treads and risers up against the stringers . I went with the oak treads and risers and I used the template they sell at the box stores to cut the ends of the boards to fit nicely they way yours fit. Which look very very nice btw. . . It was useful after making a couple of modifications to it. I ran the treads thru the planer before I stained and sealed them just to ensure they weren’t cupped as well as giving me a reason to use my planer . Which has a tiny chip on one of the blades that had to be replaced. After pushing them jokers thru the planer, which is the loudest tool I own ,then I cut them to size on my 12” miter saw (in my trade (Glaziers Local 2001☝🏼)we call a miter saw a sling blade , I mean we call it a chop saws , but I know what an actual chop saw is so I’ll call It by its correct name . I cut the material with it and everything fit beautifully. I did one thing different to what I’m assuming to be industry standard . I used approximately zero mechanical fasteners . Instead I bought the $12 per cartridge loctite poly based adhesive that’s they claim is their strongest product . And I used a lot of it . 1 cartridge per step. A couple of reasons . 1 being the obvious, no filler needed to fill nail holes , 2. Nails are a point that will often over time start to create an audible noise that we refer to as a squeak. And the final reason is the it’s my damn house and I get to do whatever I want and if I decide that the treads needed to be nailed at some point then I can grab one of my nail guns and hook that mutha up to one of my compressors (yeah I have a unhealthy addiction to buying tools , even if I don’t necessarily need them or if I already have the tool and I see a great deal on something, so I would grab the 18guage and load that mutha with a rack of 2 inchers and kuh-chee ,Kuh-chee,Kuh-chee , now there is nails. Good video BTW! ✌🏻👌🏻🤜🏻🤘🏻😂

Pergo sucks

Awesome work. Carpet and drywall are an artwork!

Amazing tutorial video. I’d love to see more like this.

Dude- I have done my 1st room with a beadboard, chair rail/ cove moulding and quarter round - using your system of notating numbering / naming your cuts. I will never not use that system! I still feel like I have to check my 1st cut on 1 side on wall before I cut the other side… until I get better. I have been doing the mitered returns, or trying to do them. U just solved the mystery of why those returns are not matching on some of the quarter rounds, omg I thought I was losing my mind. I love the material and appreciate your time. Idea for future… would love more on mitered returns for base, moulding, any kind of wood application. And how do you put in a baseboard transition when heights are different from one wall / room to another. Thanks and I will keep watching!

The stair nose wouldn't look right from a hallway to a bedroom though. Any suggestions for a hallway that we have previously laid down LVP over top of it. To now where we tore the carpets and pads out of the bedrooms and put LVP down but our installer is having a hard time figuring out hit to do the transition from the hallway to the bedrooms. there is a 3/4 height difference. One transition is now broken that we had with the hallway install. The other two bedrooms still have the original transition strip on . Can we just maybe cut a piece of angled wood that fits underneath of that transition strip and extend it out a bit further, then glue it on to it?

You have the cutest lil bicep bulbs.

Is it not recommended to just caulk the space when cutting @ 45?

Perfect , thank you sir.

In your video can you show how to peel up carpet tech strips today?

Very helpful tips on the particle board. (I have to do this, too!) But why add the new plywood? Couldn't you just nail down the hardwood to the plywood that was already there? (Too thin?)

I really like your method of installation, thank you ! ❤

Sirrrrr lol I knew that floor was gonna push thru 2 seconds before it did, I'm like why are you standing on it if you feel it is so soft! 😭

in your video today can you show how to peel up the carpet tax strips please?

First time using my miter saw, and I’ve got my written out instructions just like you had them, and it’s nice to have a system. The returns are tricky for a little triangle, I am the customer ha ha so I do want them. I feel like I learned a new language, thank you very much.

Thanks for this.

What are your thoughts about going up tight on just 10% of the whole floor and the rest of the 90% 1/4 inches out?

Honestly 99 percent of people watching this know what an inside outside corner is. ( I hope!)

in your video today can you show how to peel up carpet tax strips on the plywood and subfloor please?

No underlayment

oo thanks for the info

Very helpful thank you!

Definitely cockroaches are crawling up

I am doing my whole 2nd floor starting in my master bedroom. Would you recommend starting in a closet and working my way out or find the middle of the room and start there?

Don't blame owners weight. A poor leveling job by contractor.

Best video ever!!!

Why did you cut the part where you pin the carpet at the end...now, I can't use the video.

Thank you. Terminology is of the utmost importance. We must speak the same language. What seems logical to me as a nurse may not mean a thing to you. Same for construction, us newbies need to understand and you do a great job of explaining lingo.

Haven't seen anyone mention that heat gun trick before; very interesting.

I have seen how hard it can be to get away without dusting a whole house. That is because I know a person who removed thin set. I can just imagine the tedious nightmare it is. Then that dust was everywhere. It is worse than that, it gets all over you and takes forever to shampoo that crap out of your hair too!!

I just have some cat urine that made it to the layer under the foam and I am praying it didn't go deeper. What about just taking that OSB layer off to not just put down a fresh piece but to inspect under it while it is off?

great tips! thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. Now I just need to figure out if I can do the 44° and 46° cuts using my miter box. I don't have a miter saw at the moment 😅

Great tips.

That 44 degrees & 46 degree advice is a jewel!!!!

I am thinking of installing Pergo in my future home. Is underlayment not necessary for these? I would be concerned about moisture/mold.